What the homeowner called about
The paint on this split-level had reached the stage every Georgia homeowner recognizes: the sage green had gone chalky, the cream trim had dulled to a flat beige, and the sunny elevations had faded several shades further than the shaded ones. The brick and stone on the lower half of the house still looked good, which made the washed-out siding above it look even worse.
There was a second problem. Before any paint went on, the roof needed attention — a few shingles had lifted and one area had been patched badly by a previous contractor. Painting first and repairing later would have meant crews walking a freshly finished exterior twice, so we sequenced the roof repairs ahead of the exterior painting.
What we found on the walk-around
- Chalking on the south and west siding heavy enough to come off on a hand
- Peeling and hairline splits on the gable-end trim boards, where water had been sitting on the top edge
- Caulk joints at window casings and corner boards that had shrunk and opened
- Bare spots on the fascia behind the gutter line
- Lifted shingles and worn sealant near the roof-to-wall transition above the garage
None of it was structural. It was maintenance that had been deferred long enough that the house looked twenty years older than it was.
How the job ran
Roof first. We replaced the lifted shingles, resealed the flashing at the roof-to-wall junction and corrected the earlier patch so the detail actually sheds water instead of relying on a bead of mastic.
Wash and prep. The entire exterior was washed to remove chalk, pollen and mildew, then left to dry fully. Prep is where a repaint either lasts or fails — we scraped the loose paint on the gable trim, spot-primed bare wood and fascia, sanded the transitions so no ridges telegraphed through, and re-caulked every window casing, corner board and trim joint with a paintable elastomeric sealant.
Colors. The homeowner wanted the house to read fresh but still belong on the street. We landed on a two-tone scheme: a saturated green on the siding field with a soft cream on the fascia, soffit, porch posts and window trim. The existing dark shutters were kept, which gave the facade three deliberate tones instead of a flat wash of one color.
Coverage. Every elevation was coated, not just the street-facing one — the front, the rear above the screened porch and deck, both gable ends, the garage-side wall around the brick chimney, and the corner elevation. Soffit, fascia, frieze, posts and railings were all cut in by hand.
The result
From the street the change is dramatic, but the photos from the back and side tell the more useful story: the same finish quality carried all the way around the house, including the walls nobody sees from the road. The screened porch and deck now read as part of the house rather than an add-on, and the brick chimney has a crisp green wall behind it instead of a faded one.
Because the roof detail was corrected before the coating went on, the new paint is not covering an active water path — a distinction that decides whether a repaint lasts three years or ten.
What this kind of project costs
An exterior repaint of this scope is priced on wall area, how many stories, how much trim carpentry and prep is needed, and whether repairs are folded in. We quote prep and repairs as line items so you can see exactly what you are paying for, and any repair allowance is agreed in writing before a brush touches the house.
Thinking about a repaint on your own home?
If your siding has gone chalky or your trim is peeling, the estimate is free and there is no follow-up pressure. We will tell you honestly whether you need paint, repairs, or replacement — and if a wash and a few trim boards get you five more years, we will say that too. Get in touch or browse more of our projects.
Project photos
